Today I woke up with the feeling of a possible surf. I went to my daily bodysurfing at 6 and then we went to Yoga class at 9:30. After that I checked the waves. Finally no closeouts! I run to the surf shop and rented a 5'7". Too small but it was the only decent thing. I staid in the water for quite long and it was great. Maximum people 5 in the lineup and everybody smiling. Even the swimmers in the middle of the wave also were smiling to me. Unbelievable. First time in my life.
The waves were 1 meter onshore but very rippable. Really fun!
Then when it started to get crowded I bought a Papaya and a big cinnamon roll and we went to the beach again for the sunset. This time it was super crowded. I think I'll surf also tomorrow. Hopefully!
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